How to tie the line locker

Materials needed

  • One rappel ring, steel or aluminum
  • One oval carabiner. Locking or non-locking. Oval or pair shape work the best
  • 1 inch webbing rope will not work

This is a good picture of what the line locker should look like when done correctly. The line locker is the best way to keep knots out of your system and to keep the line as flat as possible with no twists.The fact that this design is knot-less, which increases the strength of your line and is easy to take apart after it has been under tension.

How to create the line locker

Step 1

Take the rappel ring in one hand, make a fold near the end of the webbing and hold it in the other hand.

Step 2

Take the folded webbing and place it through the rappel ring.

Step 3

With the folded webbing that came through, bring it from underneath the rappel ring and then back through the rappel ring.

Step 4

While keeping your fingers in the loop, Tighten it up a bit. Where your fingers are, is where the carabiner should go through.

Step 5

After putting the carabiner through, pull the line tight and attach the carabiners to the anchors.

How to set up primitive  system (the two point friction system)

Materilals list-

  1. A slackline.( 50 to 65 feet of 1 inch webbing should suffice)
  2. Two anchors – Rope, webing, or industrial slings will work just fine.
  3. Three carabiners, Preferably locking carabiners, but non-locking carabiners will work as long as you keep the line under 35ft.
  4. Two rappel rings.( steel or aluminum)
  5. Tree protection. ( towel, old blanket or piece of carpet)

Saftey and responsebility

  • Though there are many different ways one could set up a slackline, when using the friction system try and keep the knots out of your line by using the line locker at the anchor and the attachment point before the friction system. This way your line will hold up better to the extreme forces that are applied on the line due to slacklining. Just remember before you pull the line tight to put your tree wraps on, so as to protect your equipment and the environment.

Pros and cons-

  • The two point friction system is an awesome way to keep your rig together under stress. It will last longer while surfing, jumping and flips although the system is pretty stout, it is not with out its kick backs. Sense this design is meant for holding lines tighter for extreme tricks for a longer period of time, it takes two or three people to get the right tension. When compared to the 1 point friction system, you could say that the two point friction system takes just a little more under standing to set it up than the 1 point friction system. As you become better at slacklining you might want to consider the option to buy the SBS pulley system which will cost around $190.00, but well worth the money. If you stick to the primitive system make sure to check your rigging periodicly while you are slacklining for anything that might be comming undone.

Step 1

When you set up a slackline there will be two sides, one being the anchor side and the other being the friction system side. In this exercise you will be focused more with the friction side of things.

After you attach the line locker to one of your anchors, then you are ready to move forward with the friction system. At the other anchor point you will begin to create the friction system. Since one inch tubular webbing has a 15% stretch to it, you will want to come back from the other anchor point towards the center of the line about 3 to 4 feet. At that point you will you will create a line locker with the slackline itself, with the line locker in one hand and the extra webbing in the other you will begin to thread the friction system.

Step 2

In step two you will begin by threading the extra webbing threw this end, on the locking carabiner at the anchor. Coming up from underneath the carabiner at the anchor and back toward the line locker side. With the webbing, thread over and threw the carabiner so as the webbing is directed back to the anchor at the tree.

Step 3

In step three, with the webbing coming back towards the carabiner at the anchor, thread the line from underneath the carabiner once again. The only difference being that this section of webbing being threaded through will lie underneath the previous webbing. This will be the first friction point in the system. Checkout Fig. A.

Step 4

In step four, after you have set the webbing underneath itself, you will once more take the webbing back towards the line locker side to thread it underneath itself one more time, creating one more friction point completing the two point friction system.

Step 5

With the last step involving pulling the line tight to your desired tension, before you slackline.

How to set up a two inch sport line

Step 1

Tree aprotection- GIBBON treewear or a towel will work

Get your slackline out along with sufficient tree protection. When using tree protection you not only are protecting the tree but you are protecting the integrity of the line as well. Determine what side you are going to put the ratchet on, preferably the side with the smaller tree diameter.

Step 2

Take the ratchet end and girth hitch the smaller of the two trees. With the other end put the tail through the loop around the tree and pull it all the way through. Once snug to the tree, fold in half where the webbing meets the loop.

Step 3

With the fold in the webbing, make sure the line is flat, preferably with the GIBBON writing side up. The letters on the line seem to have a little grip to it. Once you reach the end of the webbing, then thread that piece through the ratchet. Once you have pulled out all the slack and the line is off of the ground, then crank down the ratchet to your desired tension.

Step 4

Before putting body weight on the slackline, identify two things. First make sure the ratchet is in the closed position with the ratchet facing the ground, and secondly, look at where you put the girth hitch on both sides to make sure it is at a 120 degree angle and not at a 90 degree angle.


When buying your first two inch sport line buy from a professional dealer, not from your local hardware store. Some of the stress that you will potentially put on the line could exceed limits on similar products that you would find at the hardware store.

How to set up A-frames


  •  Mini sledge hammer
  •  18 volt drill 1 ¼  paddle bit
  • ½ paddle bit

To build your A-frames you will need the following.

  •  Of course your slacklining kit. Minus the tree wraps.
  •  Four pieces of 2×6 cut at 5ft long ( if you buy from Home Depot have them cut the pieces for you)
  •  Two 1 ¼  inch by 10 inches black pipe nipples
  •  Four slings made with 11mm static rope,two being12 inches long and  two 3ft long, using the double fisherman’s knot to make the slings.
  •  Two 8ft pieces of 8mm static rope for support on the bottom of the A-frames
  •  Two 10ft one inch webbing slings for building your anchor, using the water knot to create the sling.
  •  Six, 3ft pieces of re-bar.

Pros and Cons

Pros-If there are no trees in site, then setting up with A-frames is definitely the way to go. If you are at a location with tree trunks having a diameter bigger than 8 inches then using tree protection and slacklining between the trees would be the most sensible thing to do.

Cons– If you are not a seasoned slackliner then this set up could pose a challenge. Knowing your knots, building anchors and setting up the friction system are the things you will need to know to help things go a little more smoothly.

Safety and Responsibility

It is up to you to check your equipment before and after to ensure that the equipment  you are using is not damaged or needs to be replaced. While slacklining, check your re-bar, to see if it is holding or needs a back up. Watch your fingers when you are hammering in the re-bar. When setting up make sure and be aware of possible sprinkler systems and utility lines that are under ground.

Step 1

Taking care of the 2x4s should be the first step. Start by laying the wood side by side, so you can drill the holes all at once. Then designate a top and bottom.  The top should be drilled at 1 ¼  inches, while the bottoms of the wood should be drilled at ½ inch. Drill the top holes at least a foot from the top, and about four inches from the bottom on the bottom holes.

Step 2

When the holes are drilled, take two of the boards and stand them up so that the top holes are standing up. Take the 1 ¼  inch by 10 inch black pipe nipple and insert it through the hole. When finished, repeat the process with the other set.

Step 3

After putting the pipe through the top hole, then its time to thread the 8mm static rope through the bottom on the wood of both sets of wood. For a knot, a figure 8 or a bowline knot will suffice.

Step 4

The next step involves with pounding in your re-bar, but first you must determine the length of your slackline so you will know where to set the re-bar. After setting out the pair of frames at the length that you want to slack at, then measure from the opposite direction walk out at 2 to 3 big steps, this is where you will place the re-bar. When finished repeat to the other side. Make sure and pay attention when you are pounding the re-bar in the ground.  Once the re-bar is far enough in the ground, start building your anchor with the 10 ft 1 inch webbing slings. If your not a climber then you should seek assistance for this part. Equalize the sling with a preferred figure 8 knot to keep it together. Before moving on be sure and finish the other side.

The next step in the diagram above will involve the red circles which represent the 11mm static rope slings. On each side will be a pair of slings, a 12 inch and a 3ft sling. First take the 3ft sling and attach it to the carabiner on the Re-bar side. With the other end loop it on the opposite side of the A-frame over the 1 ¼  inch black pipe. With the smaller sling loop the other side of the black pipe. The other end will be attached via Line Locker.

In the next pictures are actual shots of step 4, hopefully this will clear up any questions that you might have. If you have any trouble just look at the pictures below and carefully compare.

Step 5

In step 5, you will create the friction system on the opposite side, in order to pull your slackline tight. The picture below

 is a good example of how the A-frames on both sides should sit. It is important that Each A-frame is at a slant so it can offer the greatest amount of support when you slackline. A good tip when pulling it tight would be managing the A-frame, setting it back a little further towards the Re-bar every time you pull it tight.

So from here the next step is obvious, with the next step being the one you put on the line! Happy slacking.


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